If it is not a tight fit, you may want to cope the baseboard. Note: You can cut it to final length after the coping is done. There will be wood shrapnel and your saw will be running for long … When you make the miter cut, leave the baseboard a couple of inches too long. Using a coping saw, cut out the miter at a back angle to create a negative cut (Image 2). At first, attach the blade tightly with the far end spigot of the frame. Slightly angle the blade so as to cut away more from the backside of the baseboard. Step 4: Sand for a Tight Fit If you have a low fence on your miter saw, add a 1×4 (photo 1) to fully support the baseboard. Note: Some pros even nibble away at curved profiles with a miter saw. Nonetheless, it would help if you were careful. It takes a bit of practice to master the trick, but once you do, you’ll be able to achieve a perfect cope in less than 60 seconds and never grab for the coping saw again. Cope Baseboard. The cut piece should fit perfectly around the non-cut piece. The 45-degree cut will provide a perfect profile to guide your … Your saw has to be adjusted so it cuts perfectly square in the vertical direction. If you are cutting baseboard for an inside corner, put your pieces up together and see how well they fit (Image 1). Turn the molding upside down, set your saw at least 5 degrees to the right and cut straight down until you hit the curvy part. Installing the coping saw blade with perfection might not be a herculean task. While you install the blade in the metal frame, place it firmly on a robust surface so that the blade and structure don’t spring away. Angling the blade will create a point ensuring the baseboard face fits tightly against the adjacent piece. With a coping saw, cut along the profile.

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